The ancient art of charcuterie now commands respect as a culinary art form Once an act of necessity, charcuterie (shar-KOOtuh- ree) has seen a resurgence as a culinary art form. Techniques to preserve meat existed long before refrigeration — some have actually been around for centuries. This term for preparing and preserving various meats, particularly pork, is derived from the French words for “flesh” (chair) and “cooked” (cuit). While the word charcuterie dates to 15th-century France, when French charcutiers were highly esteemed and elevated the preservation of meat to the art form it is today, charcuterie is believed to have begun before the golden age of ancient Greece. There is proof of ancient Egyptians fattening geese for their livers, and possibly creating the first pâté de foie gras. But today, charcuterie is loved by the masses, and adventurous chefs constantly experiment with new flavors and accompaniments such as cheeses, olives, cornichons, hearty mustards, spiced nuts, apricot or fig jams, and toasted bread or crackers. A GRAIN OF SALT, A TOUCH OF FLAVOR Salt is key to the production of charcuterie. It was once more valuable than gold. It was the Egyptians who first preserved food with salt on a large scale, building their economy around the trade of cured food. They are even said to be the first to take the hard, bitter fruit of olive trees, soak it in Saltwater, and make olives edible — which is another reason why olives and cured meats are so commonly paired together. There is also early evidence that the Greeks made and ate sausages sold at the Athens food market. But it was the Celts who loved and domesticated the pig, enjoying ham smoked over wood from local juniper and beech trees in Westphalia, Germany. And today’s Westphalian ham is still made the same way — from acorn-fed pigs raised in the forests of Westphalia. Eventually the Celts perfected a hamcuring method during the Iron Age that they traded with the Romans, and from there the Romans established legal standards for pork production. Romans are credited with turning pork butchery into a trade by marching it into France. In France, the charcutiers of the late 15th century weren’t just tradesmen; they were key players in maintaining the food supply in their towns. These specialty butchers were regarded as masters of their craft, and made some of the largest advancements in pig preparations. During the French Revolution in the late 1700s, there were almost 100 master charcutiers. Salt remains valuable as a preservative for dehydrating meats. But sweeteners, including sugar, honey, maple syrup, and other flavoring agents, are required in the production of many cured meats to balance the harshness of the salt. Pigs will always be a crucial component to this ancient craft, and charcuterie is the paragon of using local, inexpensive products to embrace the ever-popular farm-totable dining experience. While some charcuterie is cooked, much of it is cured, and all of it from the “nose to tail” is processed to extract the most flavor and enjoyment from the animal. When meats aren’t cured with salt, they are smoked. Smoking meat and fish was popular during the Vikings’ age, but in today’s contemporary cooking, smoking is all about enhancing the colors and flavors of a dish. Depending on the type of hardwoods used, smoke gives depth to meat and elevates flavors in a variety of ways. MICHIGAN’S MASTER Hickory, maple, and cherry woods are Michigan chefs’ favorites. Just ask Brian Polcyn, the owner of Birmingham’s Forest Grill, who is known as the master of charcuterie in the United States. “I smoked with any kind of wood I could find, apple, ash, cherry and hickory,” Polcyn says. “I was, and still am, fascinated by the process of taking inexpensive cuts of meat, changing their flavor and texture, to create distinctive food with lots of flavor — it’s the coolest food with the most soul.” As co-author of the best-selling book Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing with Michael Ruhlman, Polcyn also spreads his knowledge on “Practicing Charcuterie” at sold-out workshops nationwide, including his annual Pigstock TC butchery classes held in Traverse City. He says his interest in charcuterie peaked while working at the legendary, but now closed, Golden Mushroom restaurant in Southfield, when he started smoking meat and sausages for Chef Milos Cihelka. But as the son of a Mexican mother and Polish father, he fondly recalls his “ … Polish grandma making kielbasa at every Christmas and Easter.” KNOWN BY MANY NAMES Americans have embraced the evolution of charcuterie and other cultures’ flavors in full force. These delicacies are made in a variety of styles and names, some of which you’re probably very familiar with, and others that are new to you. Salting, drying, grinding, and aging artisanal meats ranging from pâté and pancetta to confit (con-fee) and galantine (gahlan- TEEN) are extremely popular. Some familiar forms of these reinvigorated ancient delicacies are bacon, salami, cured ham such as prosciutto, speck, jamón serrano, and Smithfield ham. Texture is essential to the playfulness and enjoyment of a charcuterie plate. While some mousse and pâté are frequently silky smooth, terrine and saucisson have coarser, heartier textures. And part of the fun of eating charcuterie is coming up with your own unique combinations of charcuterie meats, cheeses, fruit spreads, and breads. As Chef Polcyn states, only partially tongue-in-cheek, “The pig is king, praise the lard.” So as you enjoy these modern renditions of time-honored treats around the city, be sure to share your newfound knowledge behind the history of it all. Where to enjoy local house-made charcuterie: Many area restaurants have embraced the preserved meat movement. Here are just a few: Forest Grill, home to Brian Polcyn, offers some of the country’s best charcuterie. Options frequently change, but duck prosciutto or any terrine and rillette options will impress you. The Root Restaurant & Bar, where the original “young gun” and Top Chef contestant James Rigato is executive chef, serves a daily selection of house-made preserved meats. Iron Chef Michael Symon’s Roast in downtown Detroit offers a plate of “today’s charcuterie” for two or more. Chef Paul Grosz, proprietor of Cuisine in downtown Detroit and The Stand Gastro Bistro in Birmingham, is known for serving plates of preserved delicacies. The recently opened Wright & Co., helmed by chef/co-proprietor Marc Djozlija, pairs its charcuterie with cheese, pickled onions, and orange marmalade. The Rattlesnake Club on the Detroit River under Chef Chris Franz also prepares house-made charcuterie. In Novi, Chef Brian Kanak of the Toasted Oak Grill makes his own sausage, in addition to chicken liver and foie gras pâté for the charcuterie board. In Corktown, sandwich and charcuterie shop Rubbed changes its “signature board” offerings weekly, but generally includes Italian, seafood, veggie, and cheese options.