Tucson Lifestyle • March 2020 • Get Your Greek On

Flavors from the chef/owner’s homeland are on the menu at this eastside eatery.

You may not confuse Qais Papoutsis, the chef/ owner of Opa’s Best Greek American Cuisine, with Milwaukee Bucks forward Giannis “The Greek Freak” Antetokounmpo, but they do have a few things in common. Besides their shared heritage, Qais is athletic, intelligent and relentless in his pursuit of excellence in his challenging career field. Additionally, both are a mere 25 years old.

Qais, pronounced “Kai-sss,” and rhymes with nice, which he genuinely is, wears jeans and a flannel shirt. His stylish beard is short, a crown of raven hair echos eyes the color of dark chocolate, and he leans in to hear every word a customer says, because at 1:30 p.m., his restaurant is still full. It is the cornerstone of the old-school Midstar shopping plaza on Broadway just west of Swan, and Qais has been at the helm for a little more than a year. “We are surrounded by businesses and most workers have just 45 minutes for lunch. We are able to accommodate that with really good food so patrons keep coming back,” Qais says.

Younger brother Nawid Esar is head chef, and Qais works the front of the house with sister Krisma, a third-year medical student at the University of Arizona who takes the occasional wait shift. “My wait staff is young and energetic, and all come from my alma mater, Amphi High School.”

Outfitted in cerulean polo shirts, the servers all but swim around tables like fish in the Mediterranean. Festive Greek music plays to entertain diners, and brushed matte gray industrial chairs are pulled up to black marble-topped tables that can accommodate 100 customers. Six or so more tables outside are utilized when the weather says “Opa!” “It’s an expression of happiness,” comments Qais, the cheer, mandatory, when diners are presented with saganaki, a skillet of kasseri cheese — buttery and mild — with a crisped exterior and melting interior courtesy of a tableside application of brandy-fueled flames. A proud Qais says with a smile, “We are the only place in Tucson to offer saganaki.”

Great care guided the menu development as Qais desired abundant choices, but not too many. “Greek American,” he says, “means a healthier approach to classic dishes. We have lowcarb options and don’t use salt.” An aromatic spice blend of fresh garlic, oregano, basil and dill, leaves dishes wanting for nothing. Asked what makes the spicy chicken spicy, he responds, “Love,” which makes sense, really. After all, love can be pretty hot.

Everything is made fresh daily as the brothers begin meticulous prep at 6 a.m. with deliveries of fresh romaine, crisp peppers, red onions and green beans, potatoes, feta, pita, lamb, chicken and seafood — including red snapper, salmon and shrimp — that will be sautéed to order in Greek spices.

Most plates feature a dipping cup of tzatziki, a classic Greek accompaniment made of fresh yogurt, olive oil and cucumber singing with pungent dill. Opa’s Best version will forever make one forget about any other condiment.

A further nod to the American palate is their array of mouth-watering burgers, including the “Classic” (lettuce, tomato, onion cheddar and bacon) and “Greek” (feta, sundried tomato and roasted red peppers). Burgers are served with a Greek salad or crisp French fries.

Grilled wraps stuffed with veggies, spinach, feta and mushrooms are further enhanced with a choice of rotisserie lamb, beef or chicken. There’s also a hummus grilled wrap for vegetarians … if said herbivores can resist the spanakopita-spinach and feta layered in flaky phyllo.

For those seeking a medley, “Meze” are shared plates with items such as fresh baba ganoush (a smoky eggplant dip), dolmades (rice and lamb stuffed grape leaves), calamari, or tabbouleh (parsley salad with green onion, tomato, nutty bulgur and a squeeze of lemon).

A fresh squeeze of lemon or lime brightens the Qais-innovated cocktail “Opa’s Best Fix.” The popular libation was concocted, “because not everyone likes to drink Ouzo as a shot.” The Greek liquor’s licorice sweetness is cut by the clarity of citrus and highlighted by triple sec and a dose of bitters. Sip a “Fix” on one of the swiveling bar stools that tuck patrons in front of a big-screen TV for sports watching. Beer and wine offerings naturally feature imports from mother Greece.

As far as décor, Greece certainly predominates. Another big screen scrolls beauty shots of the Hellenic Republic; patterned tiles form mosaic pillars, and an enormous canvas of the Acropolis adorns whitewashed walls.

Qais arrived in Southern Arizona in 2010 as a 16 year old, determined to further his education and realize his dream of restaurant ownership. A soccer standout, he made friends with club coach John Papoutsis. Because Qais had lost his parents, coach Papoutsis adopted him, and ultimately helped him finance “Opa’s Best.” The dream, however, is bigger than a single establishment in Southern Arizona. Franchising is the future for this detailoriented, chef/restaurateur.

The late lunch crowd begins to thin and Qais points to a well-dressed man of 60 or so and his equally elegant wife, saying, “That couple comes in sometimes three times a week.” The duo is effusive in their praise. “The food is consistently excellent, the portions are generous and the ambience is beautiful. We’ve been to Greece, and this is the real thing.”

And if the NBA’s star “Greek Freak” happened to turn up at Opa’s Best one day, what would Qais serve him? Qais doesn’t skip a beat: “I’d bring him lamb shanks and moussaka, our classic, most popular dishes.” And if he still has a bit of room, he could dunk an Opa’s Best gyro into the most delicious tzatziki in town.