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Jordan
Jordan is an elaborate mosaic of biblical history that dates back to the times of Genesis. A well-traveled bridge between east and west, sea and desert, Old and New Testaments, this land east of the Jordan River that in ancient times was a designated place of refuge is the only area in the Holy Land that links the lives of Abraham, Lot, Moses, Job, David, Ruth, Elijah, John the Baptist, Jesus and the Apostle Paul.
Reminders of their stories are everywhere in Jordan—from the forests of ancient Gilead in the north, to the fertile valleys of central Jordan near the Dead Sea, and beyond to the desert landscapes of the south where the Edomites once ruled, the events and lessons of the Bible flow through the landscape much like the river that bears the country’s name.
We asked Christine Moore, who has been leading Christian tour groups to Jordan since 2001, to share some quick tips on what to see and do in this timeless kingdom. First is our Q&A, followed by part one of a two part series where we will explore a few of the Old and New Testament biblical locations that Christians should see while in Jordan.
TWS: First, tell us why Christians should visit Jordan.
CM: Anyone who gets the opportunity to travel to the Holy Land should visit Jordan. It adds another dimension to your understanding of Scripture when you can see, hear, touch, smell and even taste some of the same things you have read about in the Bible, and the simple, rustic nature of Jordan’s holy sites helps visitors to easily imagine those earlier times. If you come all this way, you have to stand atop Mount Nebo and see what Moses saw; you cannot miss experiencing the wilderness where Elijah ascended to heaven and where John the Baptist lived, preached and baptized Jesus. These and countless other biblical locations make Jordan a must-see for any Christian coming to the Holy Land.
TWS: When is the best time to visit?
CM: You can visit Jordan any time of year, but the most spectacular seasons are spring and fall. In spring, the flowers are in bloom, the hills are green, the weather is moderate (average daytime Fahrenheit temperatures of 60-80) and the crowds are smaller. In fall, the dappled sunlight plays with the landscape to create dramatic colors (a photographer’s dream!)
And the temperatures are moderate and the crowds much smaller than in summer.
TWS: Any special advice or suggestions on things to do?
CM: Jordanians are warm, welcoming people, so if you go on a packaged tour, take advantage of any free time to soak up a bit of the everyday scene and mix with locals. (Most visitors from North America to Jordan participate in group tours, but independent travel is growing.) These are some of my favorite sites to see:
Mount Nebo. Mount Nebo was the final station in Moses’ historic flight from Egypt. Moses and his people camped “in the valley near Beth-peor,” a place long associated with the site known today as Ayun Musa (Springs of Moses), a small lush valley northeast of Mount Nebo. Another name for Mount Nebo is Pisgah (Syagha in Arabic).
The Bible account says it was on this hilltop that the Lord showed Moses the Promised Land that he would never enter. Moses died and was buried here in Moab, “in the valley opposite Beth-peor,” but to this day his grave remains unknown.
Mount Nebo became a place of pilgrimage for early Christians and a small church was built there in the 4th century to commemorate the end of Moses’ life. Some of the stones from that church remain in their original place in the wall around the apse. The church was subsequently expanded in the 5th and 6th centuries into the present-day large basilica with its remarkable collection of Byzantine mosaics.
The Serpentine Cross, a modern statue which stands just outside the sanctuary, is symbolic of the bronze (or brazen) serpent taken by Moses in the desert and the cross upon which Jesus was crucified.
Bethany beyond the Jordan.
The location of John the Baptist’s settlement at Bethany beyond the Jordan, opposite Jericho, has long been known from the Bible and from Byzantine and medieval texts. But today’s pilgrim has easy access unlike visitors of old. Even though early Christians followed the traditional route from Jerusalem to Jericho and across a ford to the baptismal site, the end of the Byzantine era and the shifting of trade routes brought about a decline east of the river that led to a change in the traditional pilgrimage journey: a convenient stop on the western bank to commemorate the baptism of Jesus. As late as 1994, the banks of both sides of the river were heavily mined, but a fruit of the Jordan-Israel peace treaty was the de-mining of the area and the systematic excavation of the settlement on the eastern side.
These excavations led to the 1996 re-discovery of the location where John had been living and carrying out his baptisms.
The actual site has now been identified as the area that extends between Tell al-Kharrar (Elijah’s Hill) and the Church of St. John the Baptist that was mentioned by the early pilgrims. Tell al- Kharrar is believed to be the very spot where Elijah ascended to heaven in a whirlwind on a chariot of fire. Wadi al-Kharrar is believed to be Kerith Ravine, the natural stream “east of the Jordan” where God commanded Elijah to seek refuge from King Ahab and Queen Jezebel. Centuries later, Jesus himself would seek refuge here after being threatened with stoning in Jerusalem. John 10:40-42 provides this account: “Then Jesus went back across the Jordan to the place where John had been baptizing in the early days. Here he stayed and many people came to him. They said, ‘Though John never performed a miraculous sign, all that John said about this man was true.’ And in that place many believed in Jesus.” Refuge, redemption and rebirth—all constant biblical themes connected to this sacred settlement.
Today’s visitors can re-trace the footsteps of the early Christian tradition by visiting the cave where John the Baptist lived and carried out his works. Early visitors noted that water flowed from the cave, which John drank and used for baptisms. The cave was transformed into a church during the Byzantine period. The water channel and the church, which is built around the cave, have been excavated and are open to viewing.
For other useful tips on travel to Jordan, check out visit jordan.com. Everything from dress customs to photo etiquette, hotel information to tour operators specializing in Christian travel can be found there.
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